I interviewed Malcolm White for both my radio show and my television show yesterday. I enjoyed both opportunities to sit down with him and talk about his new book “The Artful Evolution of Hal & Mals.” It’s a great memoir of a restaurant, a history book of Mississippi’s culinary and arts scenes and a love letter to a lost brother (Hal). And it’s beautifully illustrated by the talented Ginger Williams Cook. I particularly enjoyed the stories about Willie Morris (he had his own table with a phone jack so he could make prank calls), Doug Marlette (the Pulitizer winning cartoonist who unfortunately died in a wreck in Marshall county), Elvis (he supposedly made deliveries to the building when it was a warehouse for a food company) and John Grisham’s first book signing (it was held at Hal & Mal’s because it was thought it would draw some legislators if it happened at a place that sold alcohol). I heard tales about old coworkers that filled in the gaps from some of the tales they used to tell. It was a different time. The book also shows the lasting power of the restaurant, now being run by another generation after Hal’s premature and tragic death. According to Malcolm, 59% of new restaurants close within the first three years. Hal & Mal’s is close to 35 years old. He also told the story about the first Mal’s St. Paddy’s Parade (now Hal’s St. Paddy’s Parade.) and how it was held on a Thursday during rush hour traffic. Needless to say, it wasn’t received warmly by frustrated drivers. The next year moved to Saturday and the rest is history. I don’t eat at Hal & Mal’s as often as I used to (I don’t eat anywhere that often because of my schedule) but I always love getting the Red Beans and Rice when I do. It, the soups and the gumbo are like Hal’s spirit living on.
As I closed out the TV interview, I thanked Malcolm for all he has done to improve the quality of life in this state. I can rattle off a list of people who have done that — they make living here better. He and Hal were wise enough to marry music, food, writing and art together in their restaurant. That’s what we do well here in Mississippi. Like Hal’s gumbo, it’s a recipe for success.