The Mississippi State Capitol is the third capitol building built in the city of Jackson (and was recently a made a cameo in the movie The Help). Built in 1903 with railroad back taxes (and remodeled from 1979-1983), this elegant building was designed in the Beaux-Arts architectural style and placed on the site of the former state penitentiary. The irony has existed ever since.
Photo by Marshall Ramsey
All branches of Mississippi Government were once housed under the 8-foot-tall, gold-plated eagle on top of the building’s dome. Today, it’s the home of the State Legislature which meets every January and normally is in session for 90 days. This year, being the year after an election year, the session lasts around 120 days. The extra month is needed to be able to establish committees, prepare legislation, locate the free coffee and find the restrooms.
The building is permeated with old tobacco smoke, history and more than its fair share of crazy legislation. Smoking was banned a few years ago (after cigar-loving Rep. Charlie Capps’ retirement) but there is no ban on history or crazy legislation. That takes place daily.
Outside on the grounds, there are trees, statues, guns and a replica of the Liberty Bell which watch over demonstrations, inaugurations and rallies. Inside, the sausage of Mississippi state government is made.
The new legislators walked through the halls of the glorious building, admiring the Italian, Belgian and New York marble, art and old wood. Each room reveals its own secrets. The main dome features 750 lights which illuminate “Blind Justice” and has four painted scenes: A Spanish explorer, two Indians and a Confederate general. An image of Theresa Whitecloud, former Choctaw princess, looks down on the Senate Chamber from six wooden panels on the dome above. The former Supreme Court Chamber is now a committee room. One room on the first floor houses the Governor Theodore Bilbo statue — which is life-sized and short. The first floor hallway also is an art gallery of sorts. There a lost freshman legislator looking for free coffee will find The Hall of Governors. Portraits of Mississippi’s governors since the formation of the Mississippi Territory in 1798 are on display.
But what the lost legislator doesn’t know was that when the sun goes down and the Capitol is empty, the building comes alive. The former governors and legislators speak, play cards, joke and talk about the very history they made here and in the Old Capitol building a few blocks away. Slavery. The Civil War. Reconstruction. The 1890 Constitution. 1927 Flood, Segregation. The Civil Rights Era. Camille, Modern Mississippi. It’s a history buff’s dream. Former Governor Fordice’s portrait cusses Former Governor Ray Mabus’. Governor Waller’s portrait gives a stump speech fit for the Neshoba County Fair. Governor Winter’s portrait talks about the incredible change he has seen in his state in his lifetime. Governor Dennis Murphree tells the story of the Great Flood of 1927. Governor Adelbert Ames, appointed by Congress after the war, shrugs off taunts he’s a carpetbagger and reminds people he’s the last general of the Civil War to have died when he passed away in 1933. Governor Cliff Flinch and Governor Paul Johnson talk about the their terms in office. And at 4 a.m., there is a winner-take-all card game for all former legislators (with plenty of free coffee.) Senator Jack Gordon and Rep. Charlie Capps laugh and talk about budget challenges of years past. House Speaker C.B. “Buddie” Newman holds court. Several former legislators party just like during their time staying at the nearby former Sun N’ Sand Hotel. Speaker Tim Ford talks about his rise to power. Governor Musgrove wonders aloud where Governor Barbour’s portrait will be placed.
But when dawn rises, the halls of the Capital fall quiet once again, awaiting the legislators to pour in after a long night of events and lobbyist-fueled dinners. But even as the vapors burn off in the morning sun, the history permeates anyone who spends time in the magnificent building.
